Experiencing the Cuttlefish Breeding Season (Whyalla, South Australia)
Between May and August every year, the Giant Cuttlefish of Australia head to the freezing cold waters around Whyalla, South Australia to mate. Thousands of cuttlefish come for the event and it’s the biggest aggregation of cuttlefish anywhere in the world. To put it bluntly, it’s a giant fish orgy.
I cannot express how much these photos don’t even come close to what experiencing this in person is like. No matter what direction you’re looking, there are hundreds of cuttlefish glimmering in technicolour. It’s even more incredible to witness because these ones in particular are enormous, so everything from the colours, their huge eyes and their flickering tentacles are magnified.
Watching their behaviour was fascinating. The changing colours as they aggressively swim up to potential mates while pushing other suitors out of the way. The expansion of their tentacles while they put on a show and the calculated reaching out of the tentacles while the male slips their ‘special sauce’ into the female’s mouth to fertilise her eggs. The strong willed lady-cuttlefish who had clearly had enough and inked themselves and the surrounding cuttlefish before flying away. No words or photos will convey how special it was to see this - you’ll have to experience it for yourself.
Source: We Are Explorers
Source: Whyalla Diving Services
When is the best time?
Although the cuttlefish start showing up around May, the strongest cuttlefish numbers happen between June and July. Unfortunately it’s the coldest season but it’s honestly worth it.
The best time of day to get in the water is morning before everyone else has gotten in and stirred up the water and interrupted the cuttlefish … festivities.
How to swim with the giant cuttlefish
Snorkelling: The cuttlefish are only in the top 3 metres of water so the best way to swim with them is by snorkelling and you’ll be able to see them clearly even in moderate visibility. Because they gather across such a long stretch, there’s plenty of room between people in the water and you won’t get bumped into. It’s kind of like you’re getting your own cuttlefish show. You can go by your self but if you’re not a confident swimmer or you just want the extra support or re-assurance, most of the dive centres will offer a group or guided tour options.
Scuba Dive: I personally dove this and had a great time but if I were doing this again, I’d just snorkel. You’re usually hanging out around the 4-6m mark and since the water is so cold, you’re in some pretty thick neoprene (if not a whole dry suit). Given you just end up bouncing around near the surface anyway, you might as well snorkel. If you do scuba dive, make sure you’re comfortable with your bouyancy so you don’t end up splashing around and disrupting the cuttlefish or the sand for the other people in the water. Unlike snorkelling, there’s not really options for group or guided dive tours so you’re on your own for this option but it’s very easy to manage.
Glass bottom boat: A few of the dive centres also offer a glass bottom boat tour if you want to experience the cuttlefish orgy but you’re not comfortable in the water or if you’d rather stay warm and dry (honestly, I can’t blame you).
A few options for operators …
Whyalla Diving Services offers snorkelling or glass bottom boat tours and you can also hire diving gear from them if needed.
PureSA offers snorkelling tours.
Experiencing Marine Sanctuaries offers snorkelling tours and is also a not-for-profit, non-government organisation.
Cuttys also runs glass bottom boat tours.
Where to go
If you’ve chosen to do a self-guided snorkel or dive, the cuttlefish will be in the waters between Fitzgerald Bay to Black Point. The most popular spot to get in the water is at Stony Point (about 30 minutes away from Whyalla) where there’s plenty of parking, toilets and some shelter. The entrance is rocky (no surprise given the name) and can be a little slippery so you’ll need to be mindful as you walk down especially if you’re carrying a whole scuba rig, but there is a path followed by a chain rope you can hold to keep yourself secure.
There are other entrances along the coast but be careful if you are getting in around Point Lowly or Black Point - there are stronger currents, boats to watch out for and the entry is more difficult then at Stony Point.
Source: Hugh Bucknell, Google Maps
Frequently asked questions
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This does happen during winter in South Australia so the water is only around 12 to 15 degrees (celsius). This means at least a 5mm wetsuit but a word for the wise - I was in a 7mm and still felt the chill. Make sure you also have a thick hood, gloves and boots.
Pro tip: Make sure you have a thermos with a hot beverage waiting for you in the car and some nice warm clothes to change into. I watched a few people use their towel hoodies to cover themselves while they changed which kept them safe from the chilly air across their damp skin and I watched them with jealousy ... I'd recommend getting one of these if you don't have one already.
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Bring your usual scuba / snorkelling gear to save yourself money but if you get stuck or need to borrow thicker gear, you can grab pretty much everything you need in Whyalla.
The one thing you absolutely shouldn't forget is your waterproof camera or GoPro because this is truly a once in a lifetime experience.
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Nope! They're totally harmless to humans and are actually very smart so don't be surprised if they get up close and personal. Mind you, they'll be so focused on getting up close and personal with another cuttlefish they won't even pay you any mind.
They will probably get close enough for you to touch them but it goes without saying, please don't. Humans are more dangerous to cuttlefish because we have oils and bacteria on our skin that is harmful to them. Plus, it just causes them stress.
If you’re lucky, you’ll also get to see a dolphin or seal. If you're unlucky (or lucky depending on how you look at it), you might see them munching on a cuttlefish. Never fear though, sharks aren't something you'll need to worry about.
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The easiest way is by flying to Adelaide and then driving the ~ 4 hours and 15 minutes to get into Whyalla. It's also a beautiful drive.
Alternatively, you can also fly from Adelaide to Whyalla but these flights are generally expensive starting at around $200.
There's also a bus between Adelaide to Whyalla which is around $60 and takes around 5 hours and 45 minutes.
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Size – cuttlefish can be up to 60cm long and weigh 10kg
Tentacles and arms – cuttlefish have 8 long arms and 2 feeding tentacles flaring from their head. They mate head-to-head, with their arms entwined.
Chameleons of the sea – one of the most striking things you will see is how they change colour. Watch them swim over different surfaces and waves of colour will pulse across their body. It is incredible to watch, you will think you’re seeing things. Their ability to change color is used as camouflage against predators and to compete for mates with other males.
Shape-shifters – Cuttlefish can not only change colour, but they can also change shape and texture. As you snorkel, you’ll see the different shapes they can take. You’ll also see their texture changes as they swim or rest next to a rock.
They can swim forwards and backwards – cuttlefish can swim head or tail first, propelled either by a jet of water from their siphon or the rhythmic undulations of their fins.
A few pictures from the day …
Source: Christopher Lewis
Of course, you’re also in some of the best wine country in Australia so a post-swim charcuterie board and wine doesn’t go astray! A new post on that coming soon …
Have you been to Whyalla, or are you going? I’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments!
