When you think of the Great Barrier Reef, you probably think of epic coral scapes, turtles and blue skies. You probably don’t think of camping.

To be honest, I didn’t either until the dive club I was a part of organised a 3 week camping trip to Lady Musgrave Island and now I’m convinced there’s no other way to see the Great Barrier Reef.

We were pretty spoiled because we had our own 20ft rib and compressor so we were entirely self sufficient and did 4 dives a day + night dives, most people won’t have access to that. BUT, there’s still incredible reefs that you can easily swim out to - you’ll just need to make sure you’re with someone and people know where you are because sometimes the currents can pick up and make it tricky to swim back.

About the island

Lady Musgrave is the only island in the Bunker Group of the Great Barrier Reef that you can access and is approximately 100kms from the coast of Gladstone, Queensland. It’s around 8km in circumference so it only takes 40 minutes or so to walk around it and is encircled by a shallow lagoon where you’ll sometimes see epaulette sharks and baby black tip reef sharks. This is only the edge of around 3000 acres of living reef that surrounds it, which you can get a great birds eye view of from the lighthouse in the centre of the island. That’s also the only place you’re likely to get mobile reception and only if you’re with Telstra.

Because it’s somewhat remote, there are incredible and mostly untouched snorkelling and diving sites but it also means there’s lots of nesting seabirds and marine creatures. Between October - February each you, you’ll be able to see mother turtles heaving themselves up the shore at sunset to come and lay their eggs. There’s usually an island host who stays on the island and keeps an eye on the turtles to make sure they’re as undisrupted as possible and if you’re lucky, they’ll take you for a night tour of the island where you can see the live action show of the turtle digging and laying her eggs. If you’re there towards the end of the laying season, you’ll also be able to see the turtles hatching from their eggs and making a break to the shore to touch their ocean home for the first time. That said, you’ll have to accept the fact that seagulls and sharks anticipate this and wait for them in the shallows which can be quite sad.

There are around 30 camp sites on the island and if you book far enough in advance, you can book out the entire site so it’s almost like having your own private island. Most of the time though, there’ll only be a few other people because it’s not the easiest spot to get to and you need to be pretty self sufficient to stay there for an extended period of time.

There’s some basic drop toilets near the camp host area but these are the only amenities on the island - you’ll be showering áu natural in the ocean.

Getting there

Before you can pitch your tent and enjoy island life, it’s a bit of a journey to get there. The best places to start are the town of 1770 or the marina in Gladstone itself.

Ferry operators: There’s a number of tour operators and charter services that offer trips to Lady Musgrave Island. Depending on your preference and budget, you can choose between day trips or go camping like we did. It’s a lot more effort but it’s honestly a once in a life time experience (or a thrice in a lifetime experience if you’re mad enough to do it again like me).

What to expect: Depending on the swell, you might have a smooth sail or it might be a bit choppy. I definitely recommend packing some sea sickness tablets (and taking them 30 minutes to an hour before you set sail). You might also get lucky and see dolphins playing in the wake and seabirds soaring overhead.

Because we were bringing enough camping, kitchen and diving gear for ~35 people for 3 weeks, we had to take a barge overnight with Curtis Ferries which meant setting up our camping mats on whatever area of the passenger floor we could claim.

How to book camping permits

You’ll need to book using the Queensland National Parks website at https://qpws.usedirect.com/qpws/ and create an account. You’ll then use that account to manage your booking.

The Queensland Parks and Forests website at https://parks.desi.qld.gov.au/parks/capricornia-cays/camping/lady-musgrave-island also has some helpful information about the amenities etc and details of other islands in the archipeligo. There’s also a button at the bottom of this webpage to see upcoming availability for any camping permits and you’ll be redirected to the National Parks link above.

Packing for paradise - what to bring

Packing for a camping trip on Lady Musgrave Island requires a balance of preparedness and simplicity. Speaking from experience, I’d suggest:

1. Tent and sleeping gear: pack a sturdy tent that can withstand coastal winds, along with a sleeping bag and a decent camping mat for comfort.

2. Tarps, poles and rope: if you’re going in summer, there’s not many naturally shaded areas. You definitely need a large tarp that you can set up and poles and ropes to secure it from the wind. This also keeps you safe from the birds which fly overhead … you’ll also want the rope to create a makeshift clothesline to hang your swimmers, towels, clothes etc.

3. Sunscreen: goes without saying, but pack SPF50+ and make sure it’s water resistant. Even more importantly, make sure it’s reef safe!

4. Reef shoes: you’ll want these if you feel like splashing in the shallows and seeing the marine life. There’s lots of coral and sticks which can be pointy so this will keep your toes safe.

5. Clothing and swimmers: pack lightweight, quick-drying clothes you’ll mostly be living in your swimmers and (maybe) a pair of shorts. Don't forget a swimsuit for snorkeling adventures!

6. Food and water: bring ample supplies of non-perishable food items and plenty of water. There are no shops on the island, so you'll need to bring everything you need for the duration of your stay.

7. Cooking supplies: a portable stove or grill, cooking utensils, and soap for washing up are essential for preparing meals. You’ll be washing your dishes in the ocean, so make sure your soap is also organic and biodegradable so it can be used safely around the reef.

8. Personal items: insect repellent and toiletries are necessities. Again, just make sure it’s all organic and biodegradable - whatever ends up on your skin will 100% end up in the ocean and we want to keep the fishies safe.

9. First aid kit: I can’t emphasise this one enough. If you get any scrapes or cuts from the coral, you’ll want to make sure you have antiseptic cream to keep it clean and bring some antibiotics, just in case. Trust me.

10. Hammock: you’ll spend a lot of time reading or napping in this and you’ll be so glad you have it. There’s some great lightweight and portable hammocks on the market.

11. Entertainment: as beautiful as the island is, you’ll be hanging out in the light of the moon and whatever lights you brought so definitely bring books, cards, or a travel journal to unwind in the evenings.

12. Lighting: speaking of the light of the moon, it’s the only lighting you’ll have once the sun goes down. Make sure you bring a bunch of overhead lights so you can cook and hang out once it gets dark. You’ll also want a headtorch (and spare batteries) so you can easily navigate your way around the island and to bed. Whatever lighting you have, please make sure it’s an amber or red light - this is because when the baby turtles hatch, they use the moonlight to find their way to the ocean. If they mistake your lights for the moon, they’ll get disoriented and won’t stand a chance.

Have you been to Lady Musgrave Island, or are you inspired to go? I’d love to hear from you in the comments!